Troubleshooting

 Warning!: Electrical Shock Hazard. May cause serious injury or death. Do not attempt voltage measurement or advanced troubleshooting if you are not a qualified technician or electrician. Always use insulating gloves and other PPE when removing the control box faceplate to test electrical connections.

 

System Components

1.Control Box

  • a) Remote Control Antenna
  • b) Program Clock
  • c) Spray Time Adjustment
  • d) Enclosure Latch
  • e) Auto / Off / Test Switch
  • f) Tank Empty Light
  • g) Circuit Breaker
  • h) Float Switch Connector
  • i) Power cord

2. Motor

3.Pump

a) Intake From Tank

4) Manifold

  • a) Pressure Gauge
  • b) Needle Valve
  • c) Output to Nozzles

5) Agitator (optional)

6) Mounting plate

7) Remote Control transmitter

General Troubleshooting

The system does not spray at the correct times.

  • Check the Program Clock (1b) and see that the clock is set with the current time. To set clock: Turn the minute hand clockwise until the time of day on the outer dial is aligned with the triangular marker on the inner dial.
  • To set time for digital clocks see FAQ page

The system will not build pressure.

  • Check for leaks in tubing, “T” and elbow fittings or nozzles. Make sure all tubing is seated firmly in all fittings and all nozzles are screwed in tightly using O-rings or Plumbers tape if required. Note: if tubing is properly seated in fittings it will take an R-tool, or similar device, to remove.
  • Ensure intake filter is clean. It is recommended that tank filters are cleaned regularly and replaced annually.
  • Adjust pressure on pump manifold using needle valve (4b). Turn needle valve adjustment clockwise to increase pressure. Note: optimal operating pressure is between 150 and 200 psi.
  • Verify solution level in tank and make sure filter is fully submerged.

The system builds pressure but the nozzles do not spray.

  • Clogged nozzle tips. Clean nozzle by disassembling and blow the housing out with compressed air. Many users find soaking the parts in a liquid lime and calcium remover (CLR) helps to loosen hard water deposits and impurities. Old nozzles or nozzles that have been sitting without use for an extended period of time can accumulate a dried liquid near the nozzle orifice, a razor-blade makes a good tool for scraping the build-up from the nozzle tip. If cleaning does not solve the problem, replace the nozzle.
  • If using Mini Nozzles, and cleaning doesn’t help, you can replace the filter (Part MNF) as well as the nozzle tip (Part MNT)
  • Restricted tubing. Remove any kinks and avoid bends of 45 degrees or more.

Spray nozzles drip.

  • If your pump manifold has a check valve, the supply line may be under excessive pressure. Pressure should not exceed 200 PSI. Reduce pressure by turning needle valve counterclockwise until pressure is in proper range (between 150 and 200 psi).
  • Ensure all nozzle tips are screwed in tightly using O-rings or Plumbers tape if required.
  • If using Mini Nozzles; you can replace the ball and spring (Part MN-VBS)
  • Nozzles will drip during a spray cycle if the system pressure is less than 150 psi.

The system will not operate.

  • Tank is Empty. The float  switch will shut off system when liquid level is low so that the pump will not run dry. Add new misting concentrate and water.
  • No power. Confirm power to electric outlet, check breakers and GFCI’s. Ensure control box circuit breaker (1g) has not tripped; if so: turn off power to control box using toggle switch (1e) push in circuit breaker then restore power moving toggle switch to “Auto.” Note: Extension cords and power strips should not be used to supply power to the system, relocate as needed.
  • Loose connections. Make sure Float Switch Connector (1h) is properly seated and not damaged in anyway.
  • If your system has a Digital Program Clock make sure you have set an ON and OFF time for spray initiation. If you have only created ON times the relay that runs the motor will not be able to reset. See program guide on FAQ Page

The system continually trips a breaker

  • Ensure the tank filter is clean and working properly. If over a few years old, consider replacing the filter. Restricted flow from a dirty or clogged filter can cause the pump to over heat and trip the system breaker (1g) the house breaker or both.
  • If the filter is in good working order, remove the Pump (3) for the Motor (2) by removing the C clamp that holds the two together. With the pump removed, switch the system to test; if the system runs then the pump needs to be replaced. If the breaker still trips, leave the pump off and disconnect the motor lead from the back of the motor. Switch the system to test, if the system runs the motor will need to be replaced. If a breaker still trips there is a short in the control box.
  • It is very important to do these steps in order; 99% of the time, breaker issues are either Filter/Pump/Motor issues or Household electrical problems.